Time of year
Tuscany gets very hot in the summer (apart from the fact that there are too many tourists around), so spring and autumn are increasingly becoming the best periods to visit. It’s still relatively warm, but you’re not sweating and you don’t have to queue endlessly to enter the monuments or find a table at a restaurant.
Where to stay
We wanted to visit most of Tuscany (see below) but we also didn’t want to continuously pack & unpack our luggage, so we stayed for all 8 days at one place that was our «base» and drove everywhere daily (distances are not that big if you choose your «base» wisely). We stayed at Tenuta Massabò which is 20-30′ south of Firenze. It’s a beautiful residence with only 6 rooms, very well maintained and decorated with lots of art, the breakfast (included) is borderline more than we could eat and the staff is simply super-nice and helpful. Highly recommended! The owner (Filippo) is not only a host but also an artist and a former restaurant chef, so he can also cook for you a dinner on-site if you arrange this with him in advance.
Car rental
We rented a car well in advance (3-4 months). A day before flying I checked the car rental prices again and they were lower, but the 48h free cancellation had lapsed so I could no longer cancel and rebook. My advice is to set yourself a reminder a couple of days before the free cancellation expires and check if you can find a better deal.
Also, while we typically rent an electric car, this time we didn’t because a) it was more expensive than a regular car and b) our residence doesn’t have an electric charger. However, a) when I searched the day before flying, that price had dropped as well, and b) we realised during the trip that we could simply have charged at the places where we visited. Mental note for next time.
Firenze
Keep in mind that museums are typically closed on Mondays, and the Cathedral is closed on Sundays. Also, many public museums have free-entrance on the 1st Sunday of each month, so queues could be longer.
If you’re driving into town, be careful to avoid the Zona Traffico Limitato (ZTL) or be prepared for a hefty fine. Many websites will recommend either parking at the central train station and walking into town, or parking at Scandicci and then taking the tram to the central station (and then walking into town). We preferred the Parking Beccaria, on the opposite edge of the ZTL and then walking into town.
Book tickets for Uffizi (long) in advance, to avoid queuing at the ticket office. Be warned that some of the best paintings are near the end of the museum, so don’t rush through those. A local guide suggested to book ticket for late afternoon when the queue to enter is shorter.
For the cathedral (Santa Maria del Fiore) we bought the tickets only a few hours in advance on the same day. Be prepared: climbing up the bell tower (campanile)’s 414 steps can be quite a challenge, so don’t do it right after a big breakfast or lunch. Same for the dome (cupola)’s 463 steps (which we didn’t do). The other major church (Santa Maria Novella) is also interesting to visit.
Then there’s the Piazza della Signoria with Michelangelo’s David, Neptune’s fountain and the Loggia dei Lanzi. We skipped the Palazzo Vecchio and Torre di Arnolfo. Very nice also (seen it only from outside but wanted to visit) is the Orsanmichele Museum.
Two nice museums to visit: Museo Galileo (history of his discoveries on astronomy, cartography and navigation) and Leonardo Interactive Museum (not to be confused with Museo Leonardo Da Vinci, right next door, like we did 😂).
Crossing the Arno via the Ponte Vecchio (maybe the city’s most famous symbol) to the Oltrarno area, I can recommend watching the sunset from the Loggia Roof Bar of Hotel Palazzo Guadagni (check the sunset time and go 30′ before), and then a bistecca fiorentina for dinner at Braceria all’11 (we had the grass-fed Finnish steak and it was excellent). We didn’t visit the Palazzo Pitti, nor the Boboli gardens. Also, we didn’t have time to watch the sunset from Piazzale Michelangelo, but I could see huge crowds there from a distance.
Some pearls that you might not discover otherwise:
- Try any one of the «wine windows» (buchetta del vino): a small hole in the wall (typically next to a restaurant or bar), you ring the bell and get a glass of wine that you can walk around with, if you want
- Piccola Farmacia Letteraria, which can recommend books as «medicine for the soul», like a regular pharmacy recommends medicine for the body!
- Giacosa 1815 is the bar where they invented the Negroni cocktail
- B-Roof (expensive rooftop restaurant of Grand Hotel Baglioni) is also a good spot from where to watch the sunset, but it was fully booked for all the days when we were there, so try booking long in advance
- Stratagemma if you or your kids are into role-playing games, fantasy, etc. Only open few hours in the afternoon
- The food court on the 1st floor of Mercato Centrale
- The Stibbert museum for armors, weapons from all over the world, etc
- A fantastic view of the city and surrounding hills can be enjoyed from the San Francesco panorama in Fiesole
- We had excellent risotto at Risotteria Melotti Firenze
- A nice activity can be a «free walking tour» – lasts 2h-2h30 and you tip at will at the end (€10-€15/person recommended)
- If you have a couple of hours or half a day, it could be fun to follow a cooking class (there are plenty)
Lucca
Lucca is a very pretty small town surrounded by walls that you can walk on or you can rent a bicycle and cycle around (you can also rent a four-person bike that they call «risciò», but I would recommend an electric one because they’re quite heavy and you’ll quickly be exhausted). See: Duomo di San Martino (217 steps to climb the bell tower), or climb the Guinigi Tower (230 steps, trees on top of the tower!!!).
If you come at the end of October, keep in mind that there’s also the Lucca Comics Festival, but for most events you need to book well in advance.
Pisa
We only visited the Piazza dei Miracoli and climbed the leaning tower (Torre Pendente). Book in advance and again I recommend being at the top just before sunset. The Basilica is also nice. We didn’t enter the Battistero. To get there, we parked (free) at Parcheggio Via Pietrasantina and walked, but there’s also a little train that takes you back and forth, for €5/person.
Volterra
Nice little town in the mountains, with fantastic views of the surroundings anda quieter athmosphere. Can’t visit the Fortezza Medicea because now it’s a prison. Didn’t want to pay for the Acropoli Etrusca, and didn’t enter the Museo Etrusco Mario Guarnacci (saw too much culture in Firenze). Instead, it was quite interesting to visit the Torture Museum of Volterra – small but very interesting and original.
San Gimignano
Famous for its tall towers (there was competition between rich families about who would build the tallest). Small and 100% pedestrian town, beautiful architecture, very famous ice cream shop: Gelateria Dondoli
Siena
The Duomo is very big and full of interesting paintings, on the walls, ceiling and even on the floors! Note: the famous floor paintings are visible only during the months of July, September & October!
We visited also the famous Piazza del Campo where the horse race (Palio) takes place every summer, but did not walk up the Torre del Mangia (400 steps), nor the Facciatone (130 steps) – we had climbed enough stairs already during this trip.
I was surprised to see the «Lupa» (statue of female wolf feeding two children, Romolo & Remo) several times in Siena, although I knew it as a typically Roman statue. I discovered that in the legend, Remo’s children (after their father had been killed by Romolo) moved to northern Ertruria and took that female wolf with them. They settled down and founded Siena, therefore the Lupa Senese statue.
Siena is also the birthplace of the Eroica (bicycle race using vintage bicycles).
on the way back with shortly stopped at Monteriggioni, a small walled town.
Arezzo
Last stop in our trip, and we’re quite exhausted from all the walking, museums, climbing towers and stuffing ourselves full of excellent food. We parked at Parcheggio Pietri, climbed the public escalators (Hong Kong flashback!) and visited the Cathedral. As this was the 1st Sunday of the month, we happened upon the «mercato dell’antiquariato» which occupies several streets downtown around the Piazza Grande. We discovered also that several scenes from the film La Vita è Bella were shot in Arezzo.
